I was inspired by the cover photo on the current issue of Spin-Off, the magazine from Long Thread Media. I get this magazine as a bundle with access to their digital library and four monthly hardcopy issues of their magazines.
The magazines are Spin-Off, Handwoven, Little Looms, and Piecework. I'm not a very good spinner, despite having 4 spinning wheels. Two of them are actually usable wheels!
Well, the reason I was inspired was because the cover story featured a lovely yoke sweater knitted from hand spun yarn. The article's author used her knitting machine to knit the plain parts of the sweater and knitted the color work by hand.
I skimmed through the article, and although I noticed that the article called for a 6.0 mm standard knitting machine, I was sufficiently excited to use up some of my stashed yarn that I plunged right in. I was also excited about the wide range of sizes in the pattern, since I am plus-sized and many older patterns do not include larger sizes.
Note: a 6.0mm space between needles usually indicates a "Mid-gauge" machine. A standard-gauge machine generally has 4.5 mm spacing, and a bulkyi machine has 9.0 mm spacing.
Well, there was a photo of the author's LK-150 mid-gauge machine right there in the article, so I knew it was a mid-gauge machine, and assumed the editors of a spinning magazine couldn't be held accountable for knowing about knitting machines.
I started in on the hand-knitted yoke. I used my green Mellowspun yarn from a clearance sale at Mary Maxim for the body. I was trying to decide which of my stashed acrylic DK weight yarns would harmonize with the green and with each other. That week, I was participating in the Cleveland area Yarn Discovery Tour, and I needed to buy something at each yarn store I visited. I explained my dilemma to Peg at Peg's Knit and Spin, and she suggested this Paint yarn by Katia. The colors complemented my green yarn and each other, and I only had to buy one ball of yarn, not multiple skeins of different colors.
I started with the center of the ball for contrast color 1. Then I started with the outside of the ball for contrast color 2. After knitting the ribbing as described in the pattern and several rows of color work, I realized that I had omitted an increase every 6 stitches all around the neck on the first color work row. It was making the sweater look more like a volcano than a sweater. I was also unhappy with the length of the color changes in the contrast yarn. I couldn't think of any way to fix it without ripping it out, so that is what I did.
I rewound the Katia yarn into multiple smaller balls so that I could make the color changes when I wanted to on the do-over. Once I ripped out the color work, I decided I didn't like the way the ribbing looked either. It seemed stretched out. I ripped all the way back to the beginning.
This time, I started the ribbing with needles two sizes smaller than the size used in the body of the sweater. Surprisingly, this was not specified in the published pattern, although it is a typical instruction. I cast on my circular needles using the German twisted cast-on, which is ideal for ribbed edges like cuffs, necks and borders. As I cast on, I thought about how this cast-on could be adapted for machine knitting, especially on a mid-gauge machine with no ribber, where the stitches are latched up manually to form the ribbing. More to come in a future post on this.
The electronic version of the pattern thoughtfully includes a "coloring page" so you could mark up your own color work chart. I download the page and printed it out. I got out my colored pencils and got to work.
So this time I remembered the first-row increase in the color work chart.
I kept knitting. Eventually I dared to try it on.
It laid flatter than the first attempt, so I kept going. At this point I actually read the pattern steps in more detail to see what to do next once I completed the yoke. To my surprise, the pattern said to divide for the armholes, cast on some stitches for the underarms, AND CONTINUE KNITTING STRAIGHT.
I could not make my brain work around this. This is my first yoke sweater. The yoke is round. The center comes down farther on the front and back than it does at the underarms. I thought there needed to be short rows below the underarms to fill in some of the missing fabric.
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